DANLI TO ELENI

I had a lovely drive from Yojoa to Danli. Didn't get lost even once.  The huge mountains gradually gave way to rolling hills and then to a fertile valley with rich farmland.  It reminded me a lot of Virginia. I had, by then, developed some techniques for getting throught the police and military checkpoints witrhout being singled out. I would squeeze up close to the vehicle ahead of me, and go through with my nose practically up the other driver's tail-pipe. If it was a bus or big truck, so much the better. Once, when a cop started to raise his hand, I gave a cheery wave. He and  his buddy waved back and forgot to stop me.

I got to Danli feeling pretty good about everything, scoped out the town a little and checked into the hotel which my friend at Canopy Tours had reccomended.  By evening, I had settled in. I wandered out to the patio of the hotel and found a couple sitting, he sort of halfway in the hammock and her seated in a chair. I walked over and gave them my best "Buenas Noches."  They were both in an agreeable mood, so we started to talk.  Turns out the guy was a cigar vendor. He showed me ssome samples. I thought they were too expensive. US $80 for a box of 20.  So he gave me a sample, and after we had talked for a while, they left.

I ordered a Rum and coke from the bar,and asked for some matches. I lit up and proceeded to smoke maybe the finest cigar I have ever experienced. beautiful gray ash, even burn, easy draw, aromatic, it was great.  I finished the cagar, settled into the hammock, and finished my second rum and coke. There was a soft breeze, music coming from next door, everything was right. I was at peace with the world, at peace with my maker, and at peace with myself.  The music was from a big festival for kids and their parents. All the happy yelling and hollering just added to my moment. I got up sleepy and headed back to the room.

The next day, Saturday, was a housekeeping and rest day in Danli. I did a little looking around, went to one tobacco operation that someone sqaid might be open. It wasn't.  All I got to do was peek over the wall. That afternoon and evening I spent a lot of time talking to Selme, the head day clerk at hte hotel and watching soccer. someone had arranged for a guy to come by and show me some cigars. He showed up about 6:30 PM.  A sleazy looking fat guy who broke out some ridiculous looking little cigars,cheaply wrapped in nothing but cellophane, no box, no nothing.  I told him as nicely as I could that, no thanks, that wasn't what I wanted. I had decided to eat at a Padarilla (upscale restaurant) about 2 kilometers from the hotel on the main road. So,  got up and left.


I nodded at Selme as I was leaving.  "You're going out?"  He seemed a little incredulous.  "Yes," I said, "don't worry about me."  I noticed the cigar guy was getting into a very nice grey Toyota crew cab truck. It looked like he was getting in on the passenger side. I'm not really sure.  when I got to the traffic light, I turned left and the Toyota turned behind me.  " I hope this guy isn't following me."  I turned into a small shopping center to see if he would follow me.  He didn't, but he took the right-hand fork in the road then hit his brakes and started to try to turn around.  It was a bad place to turn around. I came out of the shopping center, took the highway in the opposite direction, headed out of town, and then turned around and came back on another road I knew about by then.  I knew that I had lost him.  I didn't see him again. So, I thought he just wanted to sell me those cigars.  I head back to the Paradilla.  Kind of nervous, but enjoying my supper.  There aren't a lot of people in the restaurant. Just one family, a couple, and myself.

So during dinner a truck pulls in and nobody gets out for a while. I walk over to the door. It looks like the truck, but maybe not.  After I look out, somebody gets out of the truck and comes in.  A pretty big guy.  He goes over to the cash register and buys a pack of cigarettes or changes some money, I'm not sure. Then he walks out and I see two trucks leaving.  This doesn't feel right but maybe it's nothing.  Well if it is something, I have to face it. I can't stay here all night.

So,  pay the check and ask he waitress to keep an I on me till I get nout of the parking lot,  I leave my lights off and creep out to the main road. There is a Toyota  truck much like the first one parked about 100 meters up the road facing me.  By now my heart and my imagination were bouncing like pinballs. The only thing I could think of was to head straight torwards the truck at fairly high speed.  I turned on my lights and hit the brights. I careened pase the Toyota and glancd over.  I didn't see anyone.  Must be my imagination.

I got back to the hotel, and Selme and the two security guards were standing right out in front. They were watching me intently.  Coincidence. Probably it was. So I jumped out and asked "Todo Traquillo Aqui?" That means, "Is everything OK"?

Selme asked me where I had been. I said, I think calmly, that I'd gone out for a bite to eat.  As I was entering the hotel, I heard one of the other guys telling someone on his cell phone "He just went to the Paradilla to get something to eat.  I didn't remember mentioning the Paradilla.  Had it not been for that, I would have shrugged it off as my overactive imagination.  The again I might mave misunderstood the guy on the phone.  I really didn't want to believe it was other than my imagination, but I'll never know for sure
I barricade myself in my room and got an uneasy nights sleep.

The next morning was another border incident that left me about $130 lighter and couldn't be compared to anything other than Mr. Toads  Wild Ride.  My spirits weren't exactly soaring, but that's when I met  Edwin VillaFranco.

                                                      TO BE CONTINUED.....